Shaving Tips For Smooth, Healthy Skin

There is no real trick to shaving. We all know how to do it, but not everyone knows how to get the best results and the softest legs. The following tips are the basics of a great, smooth shave:

 * Use a mild scrub (sugar scrubs are great), damp washcloth with your body wash, or a daily exfoliant such as AHA or BHA to help keep flaky skin at a minimum (which means you can get a closer shave).

* It is essential for your legs to be wet for at least two or three minutes before starting; wet hair is soft, pliable, and easier to cut. Nothing is as irritating or chafing as shaving dry or slightly damp legs. However, skin should not be soaked (as you might experience in a bathtub) because the skin swells up around the hair follicles, thus preventing a close shave.

* Finding a razor that works well for your skin, given the pressure you use while shaving, the texture of your skin, and the density of hair growth, takes some experimentation. No single type of razor works well for everyone, though the newer triple blades seem to work wonders. After finding the one that works best for you, the main thing is to change the blade frequently—dull razors make for poor shaving results.

* When it comes to shaving creams or gels, for both men and women, those that contain emollients (usually those identified as being good for sensitive dry skin) work perfectly on the legs! There is absolutely no reason to buy shaving gels or creams in pretty pink containers when in truth they are virtually identical to those in more masculine or unadorned packages. The only real difference in products targeted specifically to men or women is the type of fragrance, and fragrance-free is best for the least risk of irritation.

* Avoid shaving products that contain irritants (such as alcohol, menthol, and peppermint). Used over newly shaved skin, irritating ingredients can cause red bumps and ingrown hairs. If you find yourself without shaving cream in the shower, use hair conditioner or body wash instead. This is far easier on the legs than shaving with a bar soap or bar cleanser.

* For best results, shave against the growth of hair using careful strokes and applying even pressure.

* After you are done, do NOT use a loofah or washcloth. The action of shaving has already exfoliated your skin and further rubbing can cause irritation and create problems.

* At night apply a moisturizer, and during the day, if your legs are going to be exposed to sun, apply a moisturizer with sunscreen (SPF 15 or greater) that contains the UVA-protecting ingredients.

* Avoid AHAs after shaving. The glycolic acid in AHA products can be unnecessarily irritating to freshly shaved skin.

Understanding Skin Care

The skin serves numerous functions – detoxifying, protecting, regulating – but the primary protective or barrier function is the most obvious. The top layer of skin cells has the most important function in maintaining the effectiveness of the barrier. Here the individual cells overlie each other and are tightly packed, preventing bacteria from entering and maintaining the water-holding properties of the skin.

Fatty substances (lipids) are secreted by the cells during the course of their journey from the base layer of the skin to the top. These lipid molecules join up and form a tough connecting network, in effect acting as the mortar between the bricks of a wall.

The cell wall barriers are simply layers of fats that surround the watery contents. Therefore, the communication mechanisms must operate through these fatty cell walls. In fact, many of the substances that are involved in this communication process are various fats since it is easiest for fats to move within the fatty layers that comprise the cell walls. Despite its bad reputation, proper fats and cellular fats are of major importance in our body’s biochemistry and physiology.

Damage to the skin barrier can result from a combination of genetic predisposion and exposure to sensitizing chemicals and other substances. That is why avoiding irritants is as important as using products that help. In skin care, the most common irritants are usually perfumes and preservatives.

Fatty substances control the majority of our body’s physiology through receptors that activate many important genes. Likewise, our skin barrier is comprised of a supporting structure of collagen, a protein that contains fats that serve a critical function. These fats prevent the excess loss of water through our skin and prevent the cells of our body from becoming dehydrated and dying.

A major sign of a defective skin is the dryness that results from excessive water loss. This water can not be applied topically but must be ingested. To prevent the excessive water loss and the resulting dry skin, we must repair the skin barrier. We find that the skin composition in individuals with dry skin is due to an improper mixture of the skin fats. This is commonly due to a deficiency in our diet of the correct fats, those contained in natural olive oils, avocados, and healthy nuts, etc. On a nutritional basis, we can provide these necessary fats through the skin sometimes through topical treatments containing natural butters or oils, like Shea, olive and cocoa butter. The epidermis is not a usual means to acquire nutrition but it can absorb enough fatty substances to correct the fat imbalances that are the cause of the defect in the skin’s barrier function and thus correct the dry, itchy skin or sensitive skin problem. Try to be aware of chemical preservatives in any topical products you do use.

Common Herbs and Essential Oils in Skin Care

Essential oils and herbs offer so many benefits in your skin care regime.  Below are common essential oils and herbs commonly found in skin care products:

Almond and Almond Oil – A great vegetable oil for dry skin.  Commonly used as a carrier oil to blend with other essentials oils.  Easily absorbed into the skin and is an excellent emollient with nourishing properties.  Safety Precautions:  People with nut allergies should avoid almonds and almond oil.

Jojoba –.Jojoba oil makes a great scalp cleanser and hair conditioner.  Additionally, because of its absorption properties it is commonly used in skin care propducts as a cleaning agent, makeup remover and moisturizer…  It has a great effect on fighting wrinkles, as well as having an anti-bacterial effect on the skin.  Jojoba oil can be used as base carrier oil into which other essential oils can be diluted before applying it to the skin. Safety Precautions: No reports of toxicity

Aloe Vera – Aloe is used externally for skin irritation, burns, sunburn, wounds, eczema, psoriasis, acne, and dermatitis.  Aloe Vera has good astringent qualities.  When used with other ingredients it soothes the skin and stimulates cell regeneration. The oil is combined in massage therapy for its healing and rejuvenating properties. Safety Precautions: When used topically, some individuals may have an allergic reaction and a skin patch test (behind the ear or on the forearm) is advised before use.

Anise – Cooled down tea made from anise can be sponged on the face to help lighten the complexion.   Safety Precautions: On the whole, anise is a safe herb to use but due to its trans-anethole estrogen-like action, it may be best avoided during pregnancy or when suffering from endometriosis or any estrogen dependant cancers.

Avocado – Moisturizes, reduces appearance of age spots, heals sun damage and scars.  Additionally, avocado regenerates and rejuvenates the skin. Avocado increases collagen in the skin and therefore is an anti-aging ingredient in skin care.  Avocado oil has superior moisturizing qualities.

Carrot – A superb skin-nourishing essential oil, carrot seed helps balance both oily and dry complexions, heals damaged skin, and helps aged skin by reducing age spots and wrinkles. Safety Precautions: Carrot seeds and carrot seed oil should not be used excessively during pregnancy.

Chamomile – Tones all types of complexions. The anti-inflammatory effect of this essential oil applied topically improves skin regeneration, and a cold compress does wonders for puffy eyes. Chamomile is used in facial steams to reduce puffiness and cleanse the pores of the skin. Safety Precautions: Handling fresh chamomile plants may cause dermatitis in some individuals. It should not to be used when using anti-coagulant drugs. Please note that the essential oil is said to stimulate the uterus and should be used with care in pregnancy. Allergic reactions may occur for those that are allergic to daisies.

Green Tea – has an antioxidant effect that helps to keep wrinkles at bay.  External use: Green tea is often included in anti-aging skin care products for the antioxidant properties contained in the herb.  Green tea is a powerful antioxidant, a potent anti-inflammatory agent thereby reducing inflammation in the skin, and having a inhibitory action on collagens – an enzymatic action in the skin where the collagen is broken down, resulting in more firm and elastic skin.  In hair care, it can be used with great success to improve the gloss and shine of the hair.   Safety Precautions: When pregnant or nursing only limited amounts of green tea should be used, and it can also interfere with MAO inhibitors and blood thinning medication.  It should not be consumed together with other medication, as it may interfere with the absorption of such medicine.

Geranium – Wonderful oil for mature and troubled skin and brings a radiant glow and promotes circulation. Safety Precautions: Geranium essential oil is well tolerated by most individuals, but since it helps in balancing the hormonal system, care must be taken during pregnancy.

Ginseng – Ginseng is used in cosmetics for its rejuvenating properties. The vast amount of properties gives Ginseng an almost unlimited use in cosmetics. Its activity makes it useful in nourishing creams, in treating wrinkled and aged skin and in all cosmetic products used to retard the onset of age.  Ginseng may be used in products for weak hair and lotions for preventing hair loss as it stimulates growth and gives strength.  Safety Precautions: May worsen the side effects of stimulants such as coffee, and should best be avoided when consuming alcohol.  Not normally used by pregnant women and is not indicated for use by young children, people suffering from depression, high blood pressure, anxiety or any acute inflammatory disease.  Excess may cause headaches, restlessness, high blood pressure, and nausea.

Honey – Refines pores; tightens skin; moisturizes; retards wrinkles; anti-blemish

Jasmine – On the skin, it is used with great effect to treat dry, stressed and sensitive skins and also helps to increase elasticity. Safety Precautions: Although well tolerated, this heavy scented essential oil should be used sparingly, and specially so during pregnancy.

Lanolin – Moisturizer; softener; emollient

Lavender – Lavender skin care products are ideal for oily and combination skin. It has antiseptic and stimulant properties.  Lavender is useful in treating skin conditions such as abscesses, acne, allergies, athlete’s foot, boils, bruises, burns, dandruff, dermatitis, earache, eczema, inflammations, insect bites and stings, insect repellant, lice, psoriasis, ringworm, scabies, sores, spots, all skin types, sunburn and wounds. Safety Precautions: Although the essential oil is well tolerated by all skin types, it must be, like all essential oils, used with care – remember essential oils are powerful and very concentrated.

Mud – (including clay, fuller’s earth) reduced large pores; absorb excess grease in oily skin; improves circulation. Safety Precautions: No Toxicity Reported

Nuts – (almonds, cashews, pecans): Scrub to refine pores, combat wrinkles, blackheads and dryness

Oats – Excellent emollient properties.  Oats have a softening effect on sensitive skin. It helps to reduce the irritation caused on the skin by harsh climatic conditions or on skin with this kind of problem. It plays an important role in the treatment of older skin as well as problem skin.  Safety Precautions: No Toxicity Reported

Patchouli – It can be used for inflamed and itching skin.  The oil promotes cell rejuvenation, tightening of loose skin and heals wounds and sores, while sorting out rough, cracked skin.  Safety Precautions:  The essential oil of patchouli is well tolerated, but its heavy fragrance indicates use in low dosage.

Rose – Astringent and luxurious, rose oils and rose waters are welcome additions to almost any skin care formulation   has an astringent effect on oily skin, reducing puffiness, edema and has a slight tightening effect. The oil most effective for moisturizing and hydrating the skin while having a general stimulant and antiseptic action which is good for all skin types, but especially so for dry, mature and irritated skin. It is used to repair broken capillaries, inflammation, as well as skin redness and is useful in eczema  Safety Precautions: None noted.

Rosemary – Antioxidant properties, and secondly has a remarkable stimulating effect on the skin.  Traditionally used for hair and scalp stimulation, as well as anti-aging products.  Safety Precautions: Rosemary essential oil has a highly stimulating action and may not be suitable for people with epilepsy or high blood pressure. The essential oil should also not be used during pregnancy.

Seaweed – very good cellulite reducing capabilities All seaweeds are rich in compounds that are of specific use in the cosmetic industry

Yogurt – Cleanser; bleach; for normal and oily skin

As with any new skin care or hair product, a patch test is recommended.

Daily Skin Care Rituals for Each Skin Type

A nourishing daily regime for your skin means using products and procedures personalized to fit their unique characteristics. Each type of skin is treated differently. To get the best out of these products, you have to make sure that you are using the right procedure and treatment by knowing your skin type and other underlying conditions it may have so as to not compromise it.

Normal Skin Daily Cleansing Ritual

To clean normal skin, any cleanser bar, gel or lotion can be used. A cleanser is recommended even if you have flawless skin since plain water is not enough to keep it clean. Wash your skin twice everyday, morning and evening, and apply a cleanser on your face and neck.

A toner with a humectant and preferably no alcohol can be used. A light moisturizer can be used in the morning and a nutrient dense moisturizer in the evening.

Oily Skin Daily Cleansing Ritual

To clean oily skin, you have to wash it at least twice a day. You can try to use stronger cleansers like a gel or facial bar soap. Salicylic acid can be used to clear up blackheads or whiteheads. When soaping the face, lather gently on your face and neck, giving attention to the T-zone of your face and neck.

A toner with bioflavinoids and a little alcohol can be used with a hydrating spritz containing floral waters, aloe vera or rose water.

An oil free moisturizer is recommended since your skin is shiny with oil production, but make sure that it is noncomedogenic with humectants and includes silicone derivatives. As you age, you may want to use a moisturizer with oil emollients.

Sensitive Skin Daily Cleansing Ritual

To clean sensitive skin, cleansing is limited to once a day. Your skin’s pH balance should not be disturbed because it can make it open to irritation. A lightweight lotion type cleanser should be used instead of a heavy cold cream type. If your skin is sensitive to water, look for a cleanser that does not contain water. Try each product at least once first to see if it is the right one for you. Of all skin types, the sensitive skin is the hardest to clean since it is easily affected.

Spritz a light toner on the skin, that also doubles as a humectant. Do not use any product that may leave a greasy or oil film like bioflavinoids. You can use a moisturizer that has a silicon base or prescribed for sensitive skin.

Oily Dry Daily Cleansing Ritual

To clean oily dry skin, do it with a lotion cleanser that is of the same pH at least twice a day. Avoid cleansing bars and gels and soap that may damage your skin. Use a humectant spritz or apply the toner with a cotton pad. Use a moisturizer that can double as a night cream and is nutrient dense which is important for the body when they go into a rest and repair mode.

Acne Type Daily Skin Ritual

To clean the skin that is acne prone, you need to clean it only twice a day. Avoid cleaning it more often since it might get overstimulated. For this type of skin, a stronger cleanser is needed since it should be able to kill the p. acne bacteria that cause breakouts to happen. Products containing salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide can be used to kill bacteria.

Other ingredients that are effective against bacteria are sulfur and camphor. Your choice of toner should contain salicylic acid and a humectant to be applied via spritz and cotton pad. Your moisturizer should be oil free or noncomedogenic although tea tree oil is also great for acne type skin. Choose skin care products that are formulated for acne type skin. For treatment, you may use allatoin, cucumber, chamomile, amino acids and trace materials.

The Basic Skincare Regimen


Step 1: Cleansing

 Simple is key here. You need to find a good cleanser that your skin responds well to, and stick with it.  Avoid bar soaps as they tend to dry out the skin. Most cleansers contain oil, water and “surfactants.” The oil dissolves oil on your face, surfactants dissolve dirt and makeup and the water washes it all away. The secret is finding the right mix of oil. Too much on your skin will clog pores, while too little will dry it out. This is why you need to know your skin type. 

Be careful not to cleanse too often.  While some skincare experts swear you should cleanse skin with creamy cleansers that you wipe off with a tissue, never letting water touch your skin (some hard waters are especially hard on skin), we prefer the water method. In the morning, a splash of lukewarm water is all you need (we find it’s great for removing excess oils from your nightly moisturizing). Never wash your face with hot or cold water (both can cause broken capillaries). Also be careful about over cleansing skin.

Here’s the best way to wash your face: Use warm water to loosen dirt and clogged pores. Use a dime-sized bit of cleanser, then rinse with cool or lukewarm water. You’ll also want to take off your makeup with a proper makeup remover.


Step 2: Exfoliate

Exfoliation is the step most people skip in their weekly skincare routine. But trust me, if you start properly exfoliating your skin, you will notice an almost immediate difference. According to Berg, one of the reasons men’s skin looks more youthful than women’s is because men tend to exfoliate daily when they shave. There are several ways to exfoliate skin: Microdermabrasion, chemical peels and retinoids. 

Scrubs work by removing the top layer of dead skin cells that tend to dull your complexion. We find exfoliating skin once a week with a microdermabrasion kit keeps skin glowing year-round. Make sure you use a gentle scrub with tiny grains. Big grains in cheap scrubs can tear skin and cause more harm than good.

In the hour it takes to get a chemical peel, you can take off five years from your face. Can’t afford the pricetag for a monthly peel? Try some over-the-counter peels that work over the course of a month.  Retinoids (such as Retin-A) also work by removing the top layer of dead skin cells while also generating collagen in the skin. “Collagen is the skin’s structural fiber,” dermatologist Dennis Gross said in the October 2005 issue of O Magazine. “As we get older, it breaks down, creating lines and large pores.” Skincare experts disagree on all sorts of things, but most of them consider retinoids to be a miracle skin saver. 

And toners? Some people swear by toners, but many beauty experts do not (I once read a skincare expert claim, ‘toners are only for copy machines’). Toners are meant to remove all remaining traces of oil, makeup and dirt, but a good cleanser should do this. It’s up to you. If you like the way your skin feels with a toner. Buy it. Use it. Enjoy it.

Step 3: Moisturize

 While I know of at least one famous beauty editor who swore skin doesn’t need moisturizer, basically everyone else I’ve read disagrees and is an adamant believer in it. A basic law of beauty is that everyone, no matter her skin type, should moisturize. Even if your skin is oily, it will benefit from moistuizers. (The only exception is those with acne). Why? Moisturizers seal moisture into skin.  So how much should you moisturize? Your skin will tell you. When your skin is tight, it’s crying out for moisture. Be careful not to over moisturize — this can cause clogged pores. And eye creams? Well maybe. Some beauty experts strongly recommend eye creams. Why? The skin around the eye contains no fatty tissue and is therefore very thin and susceptible to wrinkles. Special eye creams are formulated to ‘thicken’ this area and keep it sturdy. Yet other experts (including the beauty editors of Allure in their new book) claim your daily lotion works around the eyes just as well.

Step 4: Apply Suncreen

The number 1 cause of wrinkles is sun damage, so it’s important to use sunscreen from your early years on even in winter and on cloudy days. A great trick is to purchase two moisturizers: one for night and one for day that includes UV protection. Don’t use moisturizers with sunscreen at night, the ingredients are not meant to be used all day and all night and can aggravate skin.